By S&M Kilnisan

Journal restaurant reviewers

For an Indian restaurant the name has a catchy ring to it.  Informal, unpretentious and a bit tongue in cheek.  In fact, what sets this restaurant apart from the area's other Indian restaurants is its unexpected hipness.

Reminiscent of a Soho-style eatery, the feel here is casual, comfortable and a bit on the artsy side.  Given its well-stocked bar and well-considered wine list, the Karma Kafe has all the makings of a bistro where one can gather for a quick bite and a fortifying glass of Cabernet.  (the restaurant accommodates 50 diners)

But this is a cafe with a distinct nationality.  Through a subtle use of ethnic accents the decor is anchored to a serene Indian theme.  Representing the Hindu goddesses known as "devis", an imposing ceiling medallion, painted in brilliant gold tones, immediately catches your eye.  It's a beautifully complex design, which might keep your attention riveted to the ceiling if it weren't for the equally fascinating menu.  (the devi's face also serves as the restaurant's logo).

Even though this is a small space, there's room for a five seater bar, above which hangs an array of brass temple bells in varying shapes and sizes, defying the curious diner's touch.  Then there are the ornate table tops, replicas of colorful enameled window frames from the Indian province of Rajasthan, which are so striking-looking that they too may serve as further distraction. A glass overlay allows them to function as tables. Certainly not overwhelming, the decor is designed to delight in small, measured doses; the overall effect is one of comfort, albeit a comfort with a slightly exotic edge.

Thankfully, the menu is as well conceived as the atmosphere. (There's substance behind the style.)  The Kafe's owners Tina and Mehernosh Daroowalla operate Hoboken's other Indian restaurant,  India on the Hudson, and have purposefully chosen to make their new establishment less formal and its menu playfully accommodating of Western influences but still representative of the breadth of Indian cuisine.

The menu, with its sophisticated focus, is cognizant of the latest dining trends and willing to incorporate them into traditional Indian cuisine. (We'd venture to say that you won't find another quite like it in Hudson County)

In what other Indian restaurant would you find a take on the latest quick eats craze known as "the wrap".   Here you can order a Tandoori Wrap, made with "Naan",  a traditional Indian bread, and stuffed with your choice of Tandoori filling. Accompaniments include Basmati rice, the traditional yogurt dipping sauce known as "Raita,"  salad greens and mango chutney ($9).

Keep in mind that the menu accommodates both light and hearty appetites. The selection of appetizers is plentiful enough and their portion sizes large enough to compete with entrees. In fact, the whole point of the menu is flexibility. If a diner is interested in light fare like salad and a selection of Indian breads, so be it. The grazing palate is catered to.

Appetizers include traditional dishes like the wonderfully savory "Samosa" - deep fried pastries filled with potatoes and peas or ground chicken and peas ($4/$5).   The deep fried vegetable and chicken fritters, known as "Pakoras", were equally good ($5/$6).  If you are familiar with these staples of the Indian kitchen then go for something different like the Popcorn Crawfish.  Generous pieces of crawfish meat, deep fried in a chick pea batter, were deliciously moist and found a spicy contrast in an accompanying tomato sauce ($6).  The Tandoori shrimp was a disappointment-only three to an appetizer serving and each unappetizingly dry ($8). The Kabab Sampler, comprised of succulent pieces of herb-scented chicken and lamb was excellent ($8).  Other noteworthy selections include variations on American classics like chicken wings baked in a Tandoori oven and served with a spicy mustard sauce (Wings Haryali, $6) and a chicken Caesar salad, the chicken coated in distinctive spicy tikka sauce ($6).

Entrees are served with Basmati rice and Dal (a thick lentil sauce).  Selections run from the traditional such as Chicken Curry to the unexpected such as the Crabcake Makhani - lump crabmeat cake served with a garlicky tomato sauce.  Seafood dishes with a western twist abound. For instance there's the Indian version of fish and chips (Koliwada Fish & Chips).  Or better yet, try the pan seared fillet of trout (Garlic Trout) rubbed with garlic and ginger, or broiled salmon (Bengal Salmon) accompanied by a tasty mustard-seed yogurt sauce.  The latter fish dishes are unique to the menu. (Entrees range from $11 to $19)

Also recommended is the Lamb Bhuna - a spicy lamb stew thick with chunks of tender lamb ($13) and an excellent Crawfish Biryani - a casserole redolent of peppery vegetables and sweet shreds of crawfish.  Vegetarian dishes run the gamut from vegetable dumplings (Kofta Makhani) to Malabar Vegetables prepared in a rich coconut based sauce and Gobi Matar-cauliflower and green peas in a thick gingery sauce.